Making your own patterns OR Pattern making ...

As well as using commercial dressmaking patterns, I also make my own - one of my personal favourites is:

Dress Pattern Designing - the basic principles of cut and fit by Natalie Bray

  

Originally printed in 1961, many of the suggested patterns/designs feature unusual seam lines as well as interesting shapes. Although the 'basic principles' can be rather lengthy to follow and/or complete, they do result in patterns that produce a good fit for specific sizes.

2 other books have also been written by the author - More Dress Pattern Designing and Dress Fitting. The latter book is extremely useful for gaining a wide range of knowledge regarding garment fitting for a wide range of body shapes with and without body imperfections. The 3 books work well together to provide a very useful 'working' insight into pattern designing, pattern shapes and their ultimate fit. Well recommended reading material!

More recently published are other books I use for reference - these being written by Winifred Aldrich. The first in a series is 'Metric Pattern Cutting' (originally printed in 1976) & it has been reprinted several times together with updates. It includes a wide range of pattern cutting designs and styles but is generally more 'modern' than the above books by Natalie Bray. Additionally, I found instructions easier to follow, shapes quicker to produce as there are less measurements required to make the patterns. A varied range of fitting techniques are also included.

Dressmaking Companies ...

Sewing has been a popular hobby in days gone past - especially home dressmaking. From the beginning of the 20th century, after sewing machines began appearing in every high street, patterns for making clothes steadily increased in popularity. After WWII and right up to the 1970s, they were available in almost every high street department store as well as retail fabric and haberdashery shop. It was fun to sew and be able to wear (and make) something quite unique!

BUT as everyone could afford to buy their own clothes it became 'unfashionable' to make your own and with many having less free-time, it was not as popular. Consequently, over the years sewing patterns have become less readily available, their ranges declined and many companies have disappeared altogether amalgamated.

I have always had a hobby of dressmaking and using sewing patterns and so I have a general collection spanning from appx. 1910s to date (a favourite I made from a long time ago). Mostly purchased within the UK, there are a cross-section of designs and sizes for children and adult garments as well as patterns for varied textile items that include soft furnishings, toys and accessories. The patterns have been produced by many different companies - mainly those readily available at the time. These include leading makes, such as:

Blackmore, Burda, Butterick, LeRoy, McCalls, Simplicity, Style, Vogue, Weldon

Dressmaking Pattern Basics ...

Over the years, dressmaking patterns have changed in a variety of ways. Possibly one of the most significant changes is in the basic sizing of the pattern ie. the actual measurements (eg. bust, waist, hip) v. the size code (eg. size 10, 12, 14 etc).

For example, patterns produced in the 1990s for a size 36” / 90cm bust measurement would have a size code 14 but previously, in the 1950s, the same bust size would have had a size code 12. A VERY IMPORTANT fact to remember … especially if you happen to be using a non-current pattern and more so if it has lost some of the sizing reference details.

Another thing that has changed is the pattern primer or in other words ... the making-up instructions.

The cutting layout has only changed slightly, mainly as a result of choices regarding fabric widths. However, it is the sewing instructions that have seen the biggest change with more detail being provided as well as ease of understanding. A greater variety of construction methods is now seen, many closely following those methods used within commercial practice. Additionally, there is more use made of current sewing machine, their range of accessories and other items of varied haberdashery.

Also, the pattern pieces are now quite different to those of the past. Back in the 1950s (and earlier), tissues had no actual printed markings - just a few perforations and notches. Today, they have placement lines and arrows, seam guides, descriptions, design marks and many other notations. All there to make sewing so much easier and quicker !

Clown Craft pattern ...

There were many sewing patterns available for crafts. This one for a clown was so popular, it was re-issued (with different reference numbers) for many years. Patterns would get changed with a different photograph for the envelope front but the pattern tissues and instructions were generally kept the same.


SIMPLICITY 8379 (appx. 1980s)This is a great ‘fun’ pattern that uses a polystyrene ball for the clown’s head and a small block of wood for the body (so it can sit on a shelf or ledge). It's wonderful made up in special fabric(s) as an unusual gift for a wedding or special event since the basic character facial features are ideal to personalise.

Size of finished clown appx. 19.5"/50cm high.

Dressmaking Patterns in Fashion Magazines ...

Some of my patterns originate from weekly magazines - available to readers who could send away for them.

The aim was usually to promote the magazine as well as sewing and fabric sales. This late 50s/early '60s pattern is typical of those generally available at the time.

Also note the subtle change to the pattern envelope and magazine WOMAN logo as it moves from the 1960s towards the 1970s.

Current fashion designers were often featured with the pattern garment being made up and photographed in the magazine. Here are just 2 such patterns – featuring designs of John Bates and Jean Muir.

Dressmaking Patterns – Designers ...

During the 1960/70s, there was a variety of manufacturers who produced dressmaking patterns. Some of the main 'fashionable' ones were: Vogue, Butterick, McCall's, Simplicity, Style and LeRoy although there were others not quite as popular. These main ones had a range of dressmaking patterns available from the latest ‘young designers’ of the time so that you could sew your own ‘original designer' garment at a fraction of the cost and in a fabric or colour of your own choice.





BUTTERICK 6979 - c.1970sThis one was designed by Betsy Johnson at 'Alley Cat' - a fashionable boutique of the period.












STYLE 3349 - c. 1960s
Another pattern - although not designed by a recognised or named designer, it featured garments that were almost identical to those from the BIBA range of clothes.

Wonderful Vintage Vogue Pattern ...

Ever since I began to sew, I've collected dressmaking patterns, many being those I have actually used and made from - here's a personal favourite:



VOGUE 8567 - c. 1970s

Wonderful shaped panelled dress with excellent fit and flattering design lines. 'Princess-style’ seamed panels ensure VERY GOOD BUST & HIP fitting.

Highly recommendable pattern.