Corsetry for Prom & other Special Occasion Dresses ....

I get many enquiries from potential customers regarding alterations to "Special Occasion" such as bridal & prom dresses & they usually have one thing in common ... fit!! In many instances, at the initial phone enquiry (& a few questions later), I first suggest sourcing good underwear before visiting me to look at the potential alteration. It is surprising how many "badly fitting" dresses can easily be cured by wearing GOOD FITTING underwear.

It is equally surprising that many bridal outfits are chosen for purchase without the correct underwear being worn at the first "trying on session" ... so many bodice problems can be corrected with a well-made boned corset. AND when worn correctly, the dress will fit over it & will then be easily fastened.

An extensive range of underwear is available from " What Katy Did ", a London company who specialise in an extensive range of underwear - their under garments being inspired by 1940s & 50s Hollywood glamour. Below are 2 brilliant "What Katy Did" videos (from YouTube) showing how to lace up & take off a boned corset - I've come across so many customers who don't know how to put on or fit this type of garment.

The first (from 2015) shows simply: "Taking a Corset On & Off" & the other (from 2010) shows both a below & over bust corset: 2 corset styles.

Short party dress to Bridesmaid long dress ...

Several months ago I was asked to make bridesmaids dresses for 4 children ages ranging between 5 & 13 - only 1 (the eldest) living locally. Several challenges were set in the making of the skirts (full details can be found by clicking this link CiCi Designs).

Below are the first set of images together with brief details of the garments.





The wedding was to be in October & the bride had seen short 'party' dresses (see left) to buy on-line but wanted her bridesmaids to wear full-length.


To give the younger girls the opportunity of having 2 outfits as well as providing the best opportunity for a single fitting, it was decided to make separate skirts to wear over the shorter dresses.

The dresses had a separate net petticoat (see right) which consisted of 2 layers. This was wore under the short dress as a base layer for the main skirt.

The skirt was made of 2 layers, worn over the nets & to cover the waistband, a separate sash was made with velcro fastenings.

The importance of boning a bodice ...

I've just finished uploading information for making the boned bodice that was used for the black wedding dress (above). It's more detailed than the information originally completed - mainly because I didn't have time! This has now been included on one of the pages at Stitchery-doing (click if you want to follow the link & find out more).

I've also uploaded more images & processes involved for making the entire dress (& have still some more to go) & these can be found here at CiCiDesigns.

Wedding dress : IMAGES ...

Finally the images of the dress in its final stages:

Dress linings

Above are the individual linings: left - inner satin lining (stage 5 - first layers of nets are shown on the inside); centre - inner satin lining to outside (stage 6 - cream & black net layers); right - boned bodice (stage 4) with final tulle layer (stage 6).

Finished dress: front & back views

If you want to read more about the dress & how it was made, please click CiCi-Designs

Wedding dress: stage 6 - 2nd set of nets added & 2 dresses stitched together ! ...

NOTE: Full details for making the entire dress

& each of its various parts are sequentially altogether

by clicking Black wedding dress ...

... only basic general details are outlined below

The final nets were added (tulle below stitched to interlining) & the underlinings hand-stitched together.

Wedding dress: stage 5 - 1st nets stitched & good use of safety pins !...

NOTE: Full details for making the entire dress

& each of its various parts can now be found here sequentially altogether:

 please click Black wedding dress ...

... only basic general details are outlined below

2 individual layers of nylon net have been designed to support & enhance the layers above them (image shows them from inside).

The use of safety pins became more invaluable as each layer was added & proved to be a better option than pins (see why in the detailed description above at Black wedding dress).

Wedding dress: stage 4 - finishing the boned bodice, lining & net preparation ...

Binding bodice seams

Another fitting of the wedding dress took place last week & the initial fitting was perfect - meaning  the boned bodice is now ready for the next phase ie. placement of the net layers. (These have been made ready to pin into place for the next fitting.)

To continue finishing the bodice, a satin bias binding is to cover the seam to add further stability & (as an option), maybe add additional boning. (Note: The inner seams were completed before the side seams were stitched together - it's easier!)

After clipping the seam allowances (irregularly to prevent rolling), the first part of bodice completion was to add the satin bias binding to the seams (above image shows the 3 stages):

                                       - pin bias centrally over the seam (above left)

ensuring you only stitch to the seam allowance & leaving pins in place

                                       - machine stitch along one edge (above centre)

                                       - machine stitch along other edge (above right)

The seam allowances have then been overlocked to neaten - at the next stitching stage, the lining will be partially attached to the bodice.

Lining preparation
An inner lining for the dress is in satin - primarily used to support the main net layers; the boned bodice will support the upper layers. With the same overall basic shape as the bodice, it was stitched together for the first fitting to obtain a finished 'walking length'.

At last week's fitting, the basic net layer positions were marked on the satin lining & these 'lines' will be re-inforced (below left). Using off-cuts of the tulle edging, they are stitched into position enabling the stitching of the gathered net layers (2 rows shown below right).

It's essential that the hem is finished before adding the net layers as it's a lot easier for stitching purposes. The dress has been designed to drape onto the ground but mainly only for the visible upper layers. The lining must easily clear the bride's shoes & allow her to easily walk, ensuring the net is kept away from her heels/toes. To assist in this, a strip of bias netting (below left) has been stitched to the edge of the hem - on the dress section & not on the allowance & additionally the edge of the hem has been machine-stitch eased into place. Folding the hem over the net, it is then machined into place.

The satin has a slight stretch & as the hem has been stitched, the curved hemling has been slightly pulled to create a further curve - this will ensure the hemline 'splays' outwards.

Net layers
There are several layers of net for the dress - the first 2 at the hemline have been stitched to the lining ready for the next fitting. The other layers have been gathered to their overall shapes & ready to pin into position at the next fitting. (Their finished placement & overall 'look' is a crucial part of the completed dress & for this reason, at this stage, cannot be stitched into final position. In the event any monir adjustment is necessary to the dress, it's easier to work on it minus the net layers).

Wedding dress: stage 3 - making the boned bodice & interlining ...

NOTE: Full details for making the entire dress & each of its various parts can now be found here & sequentially altogether:

 please click Black wedding dress ...

... only basic general details are outlined below

After the demi-toile (stage 2) was finally fitted & a stiffened torso-bodice had been made, it was decided to integrate the 2 items into one garment as an interlining (above left) since this will help in keeping the nets layers separate & their movement somewhat independent.

The most important aspect of this dress was its boned under-structure & to find out more about this, please click the link to Stitcherydoing - its the stitching of it that's the crucial part !

October wedding ...

PLEASE NOTE: The description of the dress that follows is a generalised one since the bride naturally wants to keep her dress a secret until after her wedding.

Client brief

An order for a wedding dress was received over a month ago for an October wedding but on a diet (like many brides) & with time constraints (for making the dress), the dress is now only being started. As with many brides, weight loss can occur right up until the day before the wedding yet any dress must ensure a perfect fit especially if it's being made. For this reason, it is intended that final fittings & any minor alterations will occur as late as possible & all major stitching completed as early as can be. 

The bride-to-be wants a sleeveless fitted full-length dress with asymmetrical hemline showing an underskirt of net. To take into account her overall design as well as likely variations in measurements throughout the fittings, a princess/panelled dress was chosen as the basic dress shape which will have an attached full-length lining/net underskirt. Main fabrics are to be man-made ones (customer’s preference) & have been purchased locally: the upper dress layer is a stretch suiting, underlining a slight stretch satin & there are 2 mesh variations of netting. A built in boned underbodice (polycotton) will also be made & stitched to the dress to help its structure & ensure all fabrics are well-supported - a waist stay may also be necessary. 

Cleaning vintage cotton & lace ...

Once again, I'm using my faithful 'old recipe' for washing some vintage white cotton fabric pieces which I've also used in the past to successfully remove curry stains from a man's cotton dinner shirt!

It's only suitable for 100% cotton so if you'd like to see the step-by-step instructions of how to do it, click this link:

OLD-FASHIONED WASHING RECIPE

- it's also good for stubborn stains on 100% cotton fabrics BUT PLEASE NOTE:

As with all washing, test a sample first!