Mesh or MESS !!! (stage 3) ...

Continuing, the sample is getting more 'crinkly' as 2 stages of black thread are completed. Currently I'm not certain what the next stage is but I'm considering paint or wax.

stitched in black

stitched more in black

While the sample section has been stitched, the piece has been 'turned' to work it. This ensures stitching remains in spread 'centrally'  rather than getting placed just in one area - consequently photos have been taken in a variety of positions too. Close-up, the colours are merging better than anticipated although at a distance, the fabric colours still remain isolated (this is an aspect of my work I'm currently investigating &/or enhancing).

Mesh or MESS !!! (stage 2) ...

More stitching on the mesh sample in pink & green - by now the sample is begining to get stiff. However, the 'holes' between the strips (only with machine stitching) are keeping the sample supple.

stitched in pink

stitched in dark green

Mesh or MESS !!! (stage 1) ...

Continuing with some 'mesh sample ideas' from the earlier patchwork waistcoat, is resulting in an enthusing 'mesh type grid'. The fabric is backed with soft interfacing to keep it firm while machine stitching ( more close-ups are here).

Pinned initially together, free machine embroidery is being used to hold the sections together - thread colours used are based on the fabrics.

mesh pinned & stitched in off-white

The next stage continues using purple thread.

stitched in purple

Patchwork & Embroidered Waistcoat: Step 10 (contd) - Finishing ...

My customer confirmed her use of the waistcoat so I was able to complete the buttons - being a reversible garment, they needed to blend in with both sides. In my stock I came across some wonderful multi-coloured ones & although not quite as large as I would have liked, they were actually perfect. I made them like cuff-links so that they could be used on either side (see image left).









After topstitching around all edges, I made buttonholes for both sides ...






& here's the waistcoat now complete.

Patchwork & Embroidered Waistcoat: Step 9 (contd) - Joining together ...

Today I've just finished joining the 2 patchworked waistcoats together along the lower edges. The first stage was to sew each continuous side seam through both waistcoats. To do this, match respective side seams together, pinning from above the side slit marker of one side seam, through across the underarm seam to the side slit marker at the other end of the side seam (ie. through the 2 separate waistcoat sections as a continuous seam). This is then repeated for the other side seam (at this point it's a good idea to check the correct seams have been stitched together & that the waistcoat is now one unit joined at the sides & is reversible.)






After this, each side seam is stitched. Clip side marker position to seamline, then press seams open above clip. The next stage is to stitch each of the 4 slits separately - match right sides together & pin together. Stitch from hem to slit marker (as per image left) to side seam position (the blue pin head shows the position of this).

Trim seam & corners & turn to right side - pin in position & press in place. The hemlines are then stitched (from the inside) across each panel, trimmed turned & also pressed.

The final stage is to complete the top-stitching around neck, hems, slits & armholes & add the fastenings. However as I need to speak to the customer to verify button colours etc, I am unable to complete this stage today.

Patchwork & Embroidered Waistcoat: Step 9 - Joining together ...

I'm currently continuing with the Patchwork & Embroidered Waistcoat - today joining the pieces together to make the single reversible one. Previously a 'lining' was made & used for the fitting 'toile' - today it was taken apart & will be joined to its embroidered counterpart.

Several weeks ago, my customer advised she had lost some additional weight & needed another fitting for her waistcoat. Knowing this was a possibility, fortunately I hadn't done any further stitching on it since July & on revisiting the customer, found it now needed a slight adjustment. All pieces were adjusted so the waistcoat can now continue ...

The first step was to interface the single fabric layers around the neck, armhole, front & lower edges. This done, the embroidered panels were joined to their single layer fabric counterparts - this results in 2 waistcoats (as it will be reversible) which are then placed right sides facing & pinned together to join.

Often with clothes such as this, I will stitch neck, front edges & armholes first then turn them inside out through the shoulder. It's quicker & easier PLUS it makes the edges neater for finishing ... the inside seams can be pressed open & when turned to the right side, it falls better into position. Below is this process at the stitching stage prior to its turning inside out. Next these seams are trimmed & all curves clipped (appx. every 0.75"/1.5cm) - this ensures all the curves lay perfectly flat when turned.

To turn inside out, pull the fronts through the shoulders from the back then pin or tack in place, then press. The waistcoat now has an inside (below left) & outside (below right) & is reversible.

The next stage is to join the side seams with side slits - I'll be finishing this over the next few days.

Patchwork & Embroidered Waistcoat: Step 6 - Embroidery on Fronts & Back ...

Here's the waistcoat pieces finished & now pressed - they have shrunk in stitching so a good job I'd left them oversized. They're now pending a fitting with the customer before I can get to the next stage.

Fronts

Back

Patchwork & Embroidered Waistcoat: Step 5 - Back ...

I've just finished the embroidery for the back (more close-ups of the stitching are here), working it in a similar manner to the fronts. Because the colouring of the 'plain fronts' fabric has some lavender/purple in it, I decided to use a purple thread for the last stage.

The 1st row (worked  using 3 different stitches - feather, a floral & a cross) is stitched in white thread on all pieces & worked close to the edge, removing tacking as stitching.

Another row, in blue thread, worked on the patchwork edges to hold the pieces down & flatten them. This time only the feather & floral stitches have been used.

Another blue row was then stitched on the inside of the lighter colour pieces & using a slightly smaller cross stitch than the original.

Finally, a purple row on the inside of the darker colour pieces, again using the smaller cross stitch.

Patchwork & Embroidered Waistcoat: Step 4 - Fronts ...

I've now finished with the embroidery (pre-programmed machine) on the 2 fronts (further close-ups of the stitching are here).

The 1st row (using 3 different stitches - feather, a floral & a cross) is stitched in purple thread on all pieces & worked close to the edge, removing tacking as stitching.

Another row, in pink thread, worked on the patchwork edges to hold the pieces down & flatten them. This time only the feather & floral stitches have been used.

A further pink row on the inside of the lighter colour pieces & using a slightly smaller cross stitch.

Finally, a white row on the inside of the darker colour pieces, again using the smaller cross stitch.

Random & mosaic patchwork samples ...

While I was pinning & tacking the patchwork waistcoat, my thoughts led to one of my projects. Discussing in my mind (with myself!) what stitching to use for the patchwork (whether hand or machine), I began to wander on to mosaics & machine embroidery. Having a few small scraps to hand (while cutting the waistcoat), I thought after tacking, I would have a break & make a machine embroidery sample ... with my mosaic theme. So here's the initial machine embroidered samples for my mosaic project (if you want to see the beginnings of this project in more detail, visit here - Project:Mosiac).

First I snipped & neatened the small scraps, pinning them randomly onto some sew-in interfacing (for stability).

I then straight stitched them quickly into place using white thread.

After this, I proceed with the same straight stitching, alternating dark & light threads (actually oddments that had to be used up!) Around 6 colors were chosen that were similar to those in the fabric. Randomly stitching in a sort of floral/leaf design & vaguely following the colours/patterns of the fabric.

This is the finished sample - the texture is rather nice & appears 'bubbly' (a result of the fine fabric, the interfacing & the stitching technique. The patterns & shapes created, generally what I was hoping for.

Overall, the sample matches to what was (at this stage) in my head - the sample will now hang up  awaiting the next development - possibly when the waistcoats next continue!

Patchwork & Embroidered Waistcoat: Step 2 - fronts & cutting ...

Both fronts (left) are now tacked & the main plain sections (fabrics above) have been cut out - the purple fabric will be used for the back of the patchwork fronts & the batik blue/pink will be used for the patchwork back.

As yet I haven't decided on the 'embroidery' that is to be used to hold the patchwork pieces in shape ..... Some initial experiments & samples in machine embroidery have led to ideas for Project: Mosaic.

Patchwork & Embroidered Waistcoat: Step 1 - Preparation & first steps ...

In between making my curtains (previous post & while I get my unpicking done etc) I've now started making a long waistcoat. Having made over 12 blouses for a customer, I suggested a long waistcoat to wear with them. A selection of various left-over cotton scraps had been collected & the colours were ideally suited for patchwork. (All fabric had been pre-washed before the blouses had been made - for shrinkage purposes.) At this early stage, no decision on final decoration techniques has been made - this will happen later when all scraps are ready & first steps completed. (It's also quite likely one of my design ideas will be incorporated - first stages of Mosaic)

After sorting the fabrics, there were 2 main colours to use - blues/turquoises & pinks/purples ... selected for back & fronts respectively. Initial thoughts were to mix with denim but larger scrap pieces allowed for complete back/front linings in the same fabrics. A fine sew-in interfacing was used for the patchwork backing - cut to oversize/vague back & front shapes. These would be used to stitch the patchwork pieces onto, as well as retain an overall fabric grainline. (The photos show the sections on my cutting board - a useful photographic aid as well as a sewing one!)

Back - pinned pieces

STEP 1 (above) : The back was begun first - 'smaller scraps' being roughly pinned on the interfacing to obtain positioning & colour co-ordination. By doing this first, final placement/sizing can then be adjusted at the tacking stage.

Back - tacked pieces

STEP 2 (above) : Each patchwork piece was positioned over another & a small turning pinned down - this ensured all edges would not fray whilst working/stitiching. As 3 - 4 pieces were pinned into final place, they were then tacked into position.

Front - tacked pieces

STEP 3 (above) : Steps 1 & 2 were repeated for both fronts (I'm still finishing the other front).

NOTE: If you want to see close-ups of the pinning & tacking, please visit the studio.