Friday, October 10, 2014

Wedding dress: stage 4 - finishing the boned bodice, lining & net preparation ...

Binding bodice seams
Another fitting of the wedding dress took place last week & the initial fitting was perfect - meaning  the boned bodice is now ready for the next phase ie. placement of the net layers. (These have been made ready to pin into place for the next fitting.)

To continue finishing the bodice, a satin bias binding is to cover the seam to add further stability & (as an option), maybe add additional boning. (Note: The inner seams were completed before the side seams were stitched together - it's easier!)

After clipping the seam allowances (irregularly to prevent rolling), the first part of bodice completion was to add the satin bias binding to the seams (above image shows the 3 stages):
                                       - pin bias centrally over the seam (above left)
ensuring you only stitch to the seam allowance & leaving pins in place
                                       - machine stitch along one edge (above centre)
                                       - machine stitch along other edge (above right)

The seam allowances have then been overlocked to neaten - at the next stitching stage, the lining will be partially attached to the bodice.

Lining preparation
An inner lining for the dress is in satin - primarily used to support the main net layers; the boned bodice will support the upper layers. With the same overall basic shape as the bodice, it was stitched together for the first fitting to obtain a finished 'walking length'.

At last week's fitting, the basic net layer positions were marked on the satin lining & these 'lines' will be re-inforced (below left). Using off-cuts of the tulle edging, they are stitched into position enabling the stitching of the gathered net layers (2 rows shown below right).

It's essential that the hem is finished before adding the net layers as it's a lot easier for stitching purposes. The dress has been designed to drape onto the ground but mainly only for the visible upper layers. The lining must easily clear the bride's shoes & allow her to easily walk, ensuring the net is kept away from her heels/toes. To assist in this, a strip of bias netting (below left) has been stitched to the edge of the hem - on the dress section & not on the allowance & additionally the edge of the hem has been machine-stitch eased into place. Folding the hem over the net, it is then machined into place.

The satin has a slight stretch & as the hem has been stitched, the curved hemling has been slightly pulled to create a further curve - this will ensure the hemline 'splays' outwards.

Net layers
There are several layers of net for the dress - the first 2 at the hemline have been stitched to the lining ready for the next fitting. The other layers have been gathered to their overall shapes & ready to pin into position at the next fitting. (Their finished placement & overall 'look' is a crucial part of the completed dress & for this reason, at this stage, cannot be stitched into final position. In the event any monir adjustment is necessary to the dress, it's easier to work on it minus the net layers).

No comments:

Post a Comment