Wave curtains information here ...

One of my blog entries here is quite popular !! so I've decided to add it to my Stitcherydoing page. I've also added more information regarding WAVE CURTAINS or DRAPES & over the next few days will be adding more pix. In particular:

        Dressing a Window shows how curtains are hung to retain their folds &

        Make a Wave Curtain demonstrates & details how to make these flattering furnishings.

If you want to have a read 'in one spot', then please click Curtains to the link.

Euro Pleats for Ikea Curtain Panels: Step 7 - Sew on Hooks ...

Stitch across upper edge of each pleat as previous instruction - this stitching holds the upper edge in place but allows the lower 'roll' to open/fan out.

When complete, sew on individual hooks, ensuring stitching does not show from the right side. The hook should be positioned as closely as possible to the vertical pleat seam line.

Before hanging, ensure all pleat 'rolls' are open then hang curtains. (At this stage, the hems are finished).

When finally complete, fold each roll & pleat into position across the curtain. "Dress the window"ensuring each pleat/fold lines run evenly & vertically perfect, tying or clipping into position. Leave for several days before removing ties.

Euro Pleats for Ikea Curtain Panels: Step 6 - Prepare pleats ...

Remove all tacking & turn to right side. Create slight roll with pleat.

Push central section of pleat-roll inwards to form 2 smaller pleats.

Ensure these pleats are sitting in the centre of the roll & fold down.

Using a wide zig-zag machine stitch (stitch length 0 ie. sewing on the 'spot'), stitch through all pleat layers close to the upper edge to hold the pleat in place.

Euro Pleats for Ikea Curtain Panels: Step 5 - Slip stitch facing ...

Slip stitching the facing to the lining

Turn the curtain to lining facing you.

The facing will next be stitched to ONLY the lining section of the curtain. Using a fine needle, pick up a few threads of the lining & insert the needle into the folded edge of the facing, sliding it along the fold to emerge appx. 0.5"/1.2cm from where it was inserted. 

Pick up a few threads of the lining & repeat this process across the width of the curtain. The ends of the facing should also be slip-stitching down. Remove all tacking.

Euro Pleats for Ikea Curtain Panels: Step 4 - Stitching pleats ...

Stitching pleats in position
With right side of curtain facing, match first & second pair of pins to create a 'pleat', pin/tack into position. Stitch from upper edge to just below the buckram depth, through all fabric layers. Repeat the process across the width of the curtain - the image above shows the first 2 pleats stitched to hold them in place.

Do not press yet but fold the pleat back to form a soft roll (see image below).

Stitch facing to hold in place
With lining fabric facing, slip stitch the facing lower edge to the lining & side edges to the side seams.

Euro Pleats for Ikea Curtain Panels: Step 3 - Marking the Pleats ...

Fold the facing over the buckram & pin into position. Fold the excess fabric (along the unfinished lower edge) over the buckram to encase it. Fold under the outer side edges & tack into place (see image below).

Euro pleat marking

For spacing of the Euro pleats, the curtain panels & rod were measured to determine the pleat & space allowances (excess fabric is made into the pleats & a space between is left plain).

In this example (see below), 6"/15cm was allowed for each of the 6 pleats; 5"/12.7cm allowed for the space between each pleat; 2.75"/7cm allowed at the side edge. The image below (left to right) shows the first pleat & first space. These measurements are marked across the width of the panel using pins placed vertically.

Euro Pleats for Ikea Curtain Panels: Step 2 - Facing the upper edge ...

NOTE: 2 sets of curtains were made (both full length) & self-lined with one of their other fine cotton curtains. Wanting only simple curtains, minimum width & the ability to easily launder them. For this reason I opted to have individual curtain panels rather then seam them together, thereby having 2 separate panels per individual curtain. To begin, all the curtains were unpicked & for the main tree/bird fabric, the patterns were matched across the entire 8 panels. One panel & one lining were used together & treated as one panel; sides seams were double folded & machine stitched; lower hems were allowed but finally stitched when upper edge had been completed.

(Ideally, the upper edge should have just been folded to encase the buckram but because the main fabric's pattern was showing through on the right side, I opted for stitching a separate facing using the lining fabric.)

To make the heading facing
Cut the lining fabric into a 8"/20cm wide strip & stitch this across the upper edge of the panel - as per image above.

The seam & facing were then pressed away from the main fabric.

Working on a flat surface & with lining/wrong side of curtain facing, lay the buckram on the curtain butting against the seam line (as per black arrow below). Pin in position across entire width of curtain (ensuring buckram lays perfectly flat) & tack into position if required.

Euro Pleats for Ikea Curtain Panels (Step 1 - contd from May 2013!) ...

Finally the lounge is finished & the Ikea Bird curtains (EIVOR left) are to be made up. I decided against eyelets in preference to Euro pleats as I wanted to have more fabric hanging like the trees printed on it! Also, I planned to have integrated linings - the Ikea plain cotton (VIVAN) are ideal & allow the curtains to retain their lightweight feel. Over the recent months, the curtains were all unpicked & patterns matched. A total of 8 curtains (for 2 areas: a patio & large window space) were to be made - each one was to be separate so that laundering would be easier. After next cutting the curtains to size (maximum length was needed for 4 curtains & only a hem was allowed - the heading fabric would be added later when a buckram was found & pleating decided). The side hems included the lining fabric (folded twice to provide weight as well as durability) & were finished by machine straight stitch. Being a relatively fine cotton fabric, this finish would be more practical.

A Euro pleat heading would be an ideal finish but because of the 'fine' fabric weight, a woven buckram would be too heavy. After much internet surfing, I finally came across some polyester buckram (see left) available in the UK for this pleating technique on the headings. Available in a wide range of widths - I opted for the 120mm / 4.75" version from an excellent mail-order company thoroughly recommeded (They are:  www.curtaingenius.co.uk & besides this item, also sell many other wonderful curtain-related other items.) The sew-on brass curtain hooks (see also left) were obtained from eBay.

Finished Wave Curtains !

The 'dressing & hanging' of the 'wave' curtains were finally completed & here they are!

Make Simple Wave Curtains & Dress them ! ...

* Dressing a window - details at end of write-up

Another pair of lined curtains have just been finished - basically made from oddments & costing less than £30.00!

For a spare bedroom, the curtains were designed for a window (appx. 5'  /1.5m wide) above a radiator. In the past I've normally had colourful walls & paintwork but having moved into a modern & relatively new house, I've decided to decorate/furnish it in a different way. I'm treating the house much like a 'blank canvas' with it being redecorated in magnolia & white. Boring?? no ... I shall be using COLOUR & introducing it into the room by way of a variety of 'other means' to 'bring it alive'.

In this particular room, the window doesn't allow much light to enter the room as it overlooks an adjacent brick & house wall & has no impressive view either! However, inheriting a modern chandelier (from the previous house owner), I decided to use some of my 'stash' of fabric (rather than buy new) & begin to create a few illusions! I loved this fabric when I first got it so this is where I'll begin! So to start:

Bought a few years ago: 4 panels of furnishing fabric. In a heavy ribbed cream calico, it had an embroidered purple flower motif (appx. 3" / 70cm diameter) at 10"/ 250mm intervals. These 'display' panels (section as per image left) were ideal for narrow windows but not a wide one. The fabric was unusable lengthwise as its width was too short for the curtain's drop.

For this reason, a complimenting fabric needed to be found as a 'trim' as an additional wide edging for the side(s). Looking at various furnishings in TK Max, I first came across a pair of wonderful ethnic-style cushions in bright colours that included purple. turquoise, pink & orange. They would be an ideal focal point & would integrate & visually 'vibrate' alonside the cream panels. A few days later (whilst buying paint in the local B & Q decorating store), I came across a single 'demo' curtain that perfectly colour-matched (packaging & sample at right) the floral motif. A medium-weight polyester with a metallic paisley design, they 'linked' to the ethnic cushions as well as having a design to visually 'lift' the calico (by highlighting & emphasising the sheen of the embroidery).


Also inheriting a metal pole with rings & only needing a basic & simple window covering, I decided to opt for making 'wave' curtains. They take less fabric, are less bulky & (if I could also somehow adapt some pleated heading tape from my store), I would additionally be further 'in pocket'.


Each curtain was made by cutting the lavender curtain lengthwise in half & stitching it to one edge of the embroidered panel. As I only needed the curtains to be lightly lined, I used a new polyester/cotton duvet cover (bought from Homebase) for the linings (I didn't want the extra weight or bulk of conventional lining fabric). My pleated heading tape was stitched on the curtain's upper edge & plain metal hooks inserted along the tape on every 5th 'hook pocket' (see image above). After finishing, the curtains were hung & then * dressed (click if you want more information relating to this). I'm now just waiting for the curtains to 'hang' so that a final image can be taken!

(NOTE: All measurements/calculations here are based on the rod, pole, hooks & tape that I was using - if referencing this for your own curtains, please ensure your own measurements etc.)

Humpty finally finished & in situ ! ...

The Humpty's finally finished & it's now in place - here's just the top of it ... clean with all the 'knots & ties' replaced.

Curtains with Eyelet Rings (Step 4) ...

My curtains are now finished & pressed - the final stage was hanging them. Here's the longer pair although a better pic full-length will follow soon when I next can get into the room! (currently an overflow from another room being decorated).

Curtains with Eyelet Rings (Step 3) ...

Today, I've just finished the first pair of curtains but run out of the Rufflette rings so need to get some more to finish all pairs. (As the room is being decorated, I won't yet be able to photograph them in situ.) The first job to do was open/split the rings into their 2 halves (rings at right in image). There is a small indent on one side of the joined rings that is used to open up the pair with (I found a letter opener easier & safer than the recommended screwdriver!). The next job was to stitch around each of the marked holes on the curtain. I found this easier by pinning with 3 pins around the hole (as I worked) to ensure all layers remained in place while stitching (essential when working with a slippery fabric). So ... continuing on from yesterday ... 

... After marking the holes, all layers of the fabric need to be stitched together. This holds the area in place when cutting out the hole & ensures it remains in position while the ring is being attached. (In reality, it's much easier to cut out the hole when all layers are held in place with stitching.) 

You can stitch ordinarily with the machine using a small straight stitch but I decided to have the machine set up for machine embroidery/free stitching. It allows the hole to be more easily stitched & ideal to 'get you in the mood' for more machine embroidery! As the hole is only being stitched for stability & easier cutting, a perfect circle is not necessary (as seen in the photo).

The eyelet rings are made up of 2 sections (see above image). The one with small spikes on the inside is the first one used (the spikes lightly 'pierce' the fabric to hold it in position). On an even & firm surface, place the fabric (wrong side facing) over the ring so that the spikes are next to the main fabric and underneath.

Here's the first ring in place with the hole sitting firmly around the ring's inner edge. Press down on the fabric so that it sits snugly into the ring.

With the remaining ring half (the one with inner grooves), position it over the previous ring (grooves to the inside & facing the wrong side of the curtain).

(It should now be looking similar to the image below.)

Remain working on a firm & flat surface, carefully press down on this upper ring & it should snap down firmly in place.

(It's tempting to 'work in the hand' but I found it much easier & quicker to work flat on the table).

Repeat the process for all rings across the width of the curtain (any mistakes or puckering, remove the ring from the wrong side as per original 'splitting them in half' & start again in attaching it).




SPECIAL NOTE: Overall I was very impressed with using these Eyelet rings & would recommend their use. Although the packaging states for light to heavier weight curtains, I would suggest that a test is completed on thicker fabric to verify/confirm that the fabric is securely attached into the ring.

Curtains with Eyelet Rings (Step 2) ...

This morning I'm on to the next step - preparing the fabric for the rings.

After pressing the seam as well as the interfacings together (all on the wrong side of the curtain), the curtains were turned & given a final press along the upper edge.

Image shows right & wrong sides.

Here are the Rufflette Jupiter rings - at left is the entire ring (right side facing) - at right the ring split into its 2 sections. The one with 'spikes' fits to the main fabric on the front; the other ridged one to the back, against the lining.

Here's the old curtains with rings slightly larger than mine. On checking the size (in relation to the new ones), they appeared to have an ideal 'hole' size for the new ones + the curtains are exactly the same width as mine. If the hole was the right size, I would be able to trace their outlines straight on to the new pair.

To test: The hole is traced over onto a sample fabric & interfacing swatch. The hole is stitched around (just to the outer edge) & then cut away. After tryibng the new ring, it fitted perfectly.

The old curtain is positioned on top of the new one (right side of old facing wrong side of new one).

Ensuring edges are matching, carefully draw around the inner circles across the width of the curtain.

(Circle outlines just visible in image at right.)

The next step of fitting the rings can only be completed when the stitching is finished & the holes have been cut away (as per sample above).

That's my next job .......... I'll be using the machine set up for darning/free machine work as it's easy & quick to do PLUS the machine will then be set up for me to get some initial samples underway for my creative 'cell' project (click if you want to know more about this stitching).

Curtains with Eyelet Rings (Step 1) ...

Some pre-made curtains I liked were only available with a tape heading. As I wanted to hang them on a pole, I've decided to alter them for use with rings. I'll be using Rufflette Jupiter rings but not the tape as recommended - the curtains have attached linings & are medium-weight polyester ones. (If you're interested in having a go too, you'll also need a length of medium sew-in interfacing as per the width of the chosen curtain. This is being used to stabilize the upper edge.)

This is the reverse side of the original headed curtains showing the tape stitched across the upper edge.

Carefully unpick this & remove it, discarding any loose threads from the curtain.

Here the tape has been removed & shows the folded upper edge which will be retained & later used for seaming.

(The curtain SHOULD NOT YET BE PRESSED - the old fold lines will be used as stitching guides.)

Turn the curtain inside out with right sides facing one another. 





Cut the interfacing into a 8"/20cm wide strip - length to be the width of the curtain.

Mark a line down the centre of the entire length of the strip (shown here in red).
This line will be a stitching guideline.

Position the curtain with main curtain fabric uppermost. Matching the fold lines of both curtain & lining, pin them together, ensuring both fabrics lay perfectly flat.









Place the interfacing along the upper edge of the curtain, matching the marked centre of the interfacing to the foldline of the curtain.

Ensure the interfacing is perfectly flat & pin in place.

Stitch through all thicknesses, following the marked guideline on the interfacing.








Fold the upper layer of the interfacing back on itself, to reveal the upper seam allowances.
This double layer of interfacing will ensure the upper edge of the finished curtain remains flat in hanging. Additionally, it will provides firmness for the rings when stitching the holes for them & when securing them finally in place.












Trim the seam raw edges to appx. 0.5"/1cm.

Turn curtain to right side & lightly press upper edges in position.





The NEXT STEPS are to add rings which I'll be doing in the next few days. I'm ALSO hoping to get some experiments with machine embroidery started & the curtain off-cuts & non-woven interfacings are ideal to start with ................... they're ideally suited to the "cells project" which can be seen here.

Humpty Stitching ...

Here is the reverse side of the central panel, backed with fine nylon net curtain for ease of stitching. The smaller stitches are those used for the initial 'smaller' smocked lines - the large stitches are those of the second smocking (ie the fatter of the rows (see image below).

If you want to know more about transfers & their use, click here.

This shows the 2 sets of smocking lines as well as the black machine stitching rows that hold the embroidered mats in place. Also visible are the various crochet edges of some mats as well as some original 1940s embroidery.

The final outer 'bag' is now on the Humpty, all missing rings replaced. It's now ready for the outer panels & base to be laced on.

As an alternative at this stage, the corner 'ears' could just be left or tied with a cord as per the original 1930's Humpty instructions (specific books mentioned can be found in Bibliography here).