Tuesday, October 29, 2013

Patchwork & Embroidered Waistcoat: Step 9 - Joining together ...

I'm currently continuing with the Patchwork & Embroidered Waistcoat - today joining the pieces together to make the single reversible one. Previously a 'lining' was made & used for the fitting 'toile' - today it was taken apart & will be joined to its embroidered counterpart.

Several weeks ago, my customer advised she had lost some additional weight & needed another fitting for her waistcoat. Knowing this was a possibility, fortunately I hadn't done any further stitching on it since July & on revisiting the customer, found it now needed a slight adjustment. All pieces were adjusted so the waistcoat can now continue ...

The first step was to interface the single fabric layers around the neck, armhole, front & lower edges. This done, the embroidered panels were joined to their single layer fabric counterparts - this results in 2 waistcoats (as it will be reversible) which are then placed right sides facing & pinned together to join.

Often with clothes such as this, I will stitch neck, front edges & armholes first then turn them inside out through the shoulder. It's quicker & easier PLUS it makes the edges neater for finishing ... the inside seams can be pressed open & when turned to the right side, it falls better into position. Below is this process at the stitching stage prior to its turning inside out. Next these seams are trimmed & all curves clipped (appx. every 0.75"/1.5cm) - this ensures all the curves lay perfectly flat when turned.

To turn inside out, pull the fronts through the shoulders from the back then pin or tack in place, then press. The waistcoat now has an inside (below left) & outside (below right) & is reversible.

The next stage is to join the side seams with side slits - I'll be finishing this over the next few days.

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